The American Dream of Diamonds – Cartier and America

Just like glamorous Hollywood movies glistened a ray of hope during the great depression, Cartier and America shines like the diamond it is during these though economic times at the Legion of Honor of San Francisco. You can see it in the works as hundreds of visitors flock to the exhibit in awe.

Cartier has always been a heavy hitter in the jewelry world. Ever since it opened it’s doors in Paris in 1847 when Louis-François Cartier took over the jewelery workshop where he did his apprenticeship in Paris the rich, famous and the esteemed have followed the brand religiously. Cartier’s world wide fame came with Alfred Cartier’s sons Pierre, Jacques, Louis, the grandsons of Louis-Francois. Cartier opened it’s first store in England in 1902 and finally opened it’s first store in New York City in 1909. After Pierre’s death the family sold all three stores which were later all bought by Joseph Kanoui and a group of investors to restore Cartier to it’s old glory.

As you enter the exhibit it’s easy to see why Cartier was called the “Jeweller to Kings, King of Jewellers”. A diamond clock awaits curious wanderers as the entrance piece. Information posters on the walls celebrate Cartier’s 100th anniversary in America. As you move on to the second piece, a diamond and platinum tiara you’re already intoxicated by the beauty and dreams of waking up a princess, crowned in such exquisite jewels. The pieces and rooms are in chronological order so it’s easy to see the difference in the fashion and the changes that happened within the company. The first room shows a clear interest in Chinese and Buddhist art splattered with the touch of art deco. Clocks with monks carved in enamel and belts made of rubies and gold to replicate a piece made for the Qing dynasty; the influence is evident. Soon you get to the brooch which graces the poster of the exhibit. Made of emeralds, diamonds, platinum and enamel, this piece is definitely a master piece. Names like Ernest Cassel, Gloria Swanson, Mary Scott, Princess Marie Bonaparte, Vanderbilt and Princess Anastasia of Greece flash by as the crowd glides into the next room. The style makes an abrupt change to Ancient Egypt as Tutankhamun’s tomb is discovered in 1922. Clocks are based on the Temple of Khonsu with similar murals carved in gold. Turquoise is used in many items as well as the silhouette of scarabs. The social influence, America’s own royalty, the socialites become the center of attention. Head bands take the place of tiaras, like the one purchased by Doris Duke made to fit the 20’s shorter hair style.

Cartier’s secret may lay in the brand’s consistency. As 1920’s style morphed into colorful jewelery, Cartier continued to use white diamonds. More names flash by as the years progress, Mrs. J. F. Kennedy, Marjorie Merriweather Post, Lady Astor, Paul-Louis Weiller, Duchess of Windsor. More and more animals start appearing on the jewelery. New ideas and styles -like surrealism influenced the brand. With the dolphin bangle, made out of 1028 diamonds and emerald eyes, you can almost see the shimmering ocean. Maybe the exhibit’s most ironic piece, 18 carat gold replica of the Apollo 11 lunar module made by Michael Collins in 1969 sits in the corner, a bit lonely. Elizabeth Taylor’s jewels quickly drew everyone to it’s self. 69.42 carat diamond bought for Taylor by Richard Burton for one million dollars is maybe the only thing that could have over-shone the iconic Taylor’s beauty. As you exit you gaze at illustrations, photo-books and casts of the pieces made throughout decades. Some of the most famous diamonds have been trusted to Cartier, like the 47.69 carat diamond, Star of South Africa discovered in 1869, also the first significant discovery in South Africa and the Hope diamond.

When you leave the exhibit, the feelings it creates follows you. A euphoric state followed by resentment of having to go back to normal life. Cartier’s pieces are an ode to the American dream, a fairytale life. Rendering the visitor speechless, the exhibit makes you feel like a child, dreaming of being a princess -feeling like a princess. There is no doubt that Cartier’s pieces have evoked emotions in everyone with its immaculate technique and beauty and now with it’s added history. The exhibit is a definite success and an incredible experience for those who can visit.